It's not a real hard job but it takes time. I did it in about 5 hours. - Remove battery - remove wheels and wheel assemblies - remove air filter and intake assemblies - remove backup light switch connector - remove and mark shifter assemblies - remove speedometer cable - remove 24mm plug from transaxel housing and drain fluid - remove plastic splash guards from font of body-10mm and 12mm wrenches - remove 30mm axel nuts from both sides - remove fron ball joint control arm bolts -14mm wrench - tap transaxels out - pull transaxels out from transmission - remoive starter cables -12mm wrench - remove 3 bolts on thin flywheel cover under car-10mm and 14 mm wrenches - remove transaxel bracket - 3 17mm bolts - remove lower transaxel -to-engine mount - 14 mm wrench go back up top and remove the 12mm bols holding the hydraulic slave cylinder on the front of the transaxel housing - losen only!!!! the upper transaxel-to-engine mount - remove the lower transaxel-to-engine mount - 17mm and 14mm bolts - position a jack under the engine oil pan to support engine - position a floor jack with wheels under transaxel housing - remove all bolt securing the transaxel housing - separate transaxel housing from engine and lower it - remove clutch cover - 12mm bolts - remove clutch - using a centering tool, install new clutch - re-install clutch cover - torque to 15 ft/lbs now, put it all back together. I found that the best way to re-attach the tyransaxel housing to the engine was to ust an engine hoist on wheels as I was doing this operation solo. If I'd had help, a motorcycle jack would have done quite nicely or a floorjack on wheels if I'd had two helpers Have fun..every real man must do at least one clutch replacement in his life.
DRIVER REAR, NEXT TO DIFFERENTIAL UP AT THE TOP MOUNTED TO THE SIDE OF THE BODY. YOU DO NEED A SPECIAL TOOL TO REMOVE IT. IT IS VERY EASY TO REMOVE WITH THE TOOL.
take window adjuster case of...remove the nut, is there a special tool to remove the mirror unit. There is a thread on the new mirror which goes into the door
A simple pair of locking pliers (vice-grips)
The trim on either side of the radio needs to be removed This is best done with a trim removal tool Once the trim is off you will see two bolts each side of the radio Remove these and the unit is out
There is a special tool ( a puller ) to remove the crankshaft sprocket.There is a special tool ( a puller ) to remove the crankshaft sprocket.
= What tool to remove a front brake pads on a 2007? =
May have a horseshoe type clip on the concealed back side Tool available at auto parts store -not expensive
No you don't have to remove the dash, there are four little holes on the face of the factory stereo which require a removal tool this tool can be purchased at the Ford dealer for a resonable price, after you insert the tools (one on each side) than you will be able to pull the stereo out.
you must push in on the door panel at the knob. There is a u-shape wire clip that is on the back side of the knob. There is a tool that cost about 5.00 that will unsnap the clip or you can make a hook shape tool from stiff wire to remove the clip.
open hood insert tool use tool remove pulley remove bolts remove pump
I think that it's the same as my 95. The filter is on the passenger side behind the plastic shroud (wheel weld) on the left side. You have to remove the tire and the shroud to get to the filter. You will also need a filter remove tool which inserts under the filter to release the line. You can buy this tool at any auto parts store.