If you are good with cars and have tore into the long block of an engine it can be done. Begin by disconnecting the battery. You will need a healthy set of tools including a torque wrench and a puller for the crankshaft pulley. It has been a little while since I did this repair, so I may miss a few steps. I would strongly recommend purchase of a Chilton's or Hayes repair manual for this car when doing this. First, the radiator has to be removed and radiator housing needs to be loosened. Drain the radiator first. The idler pulley for the serpentine belt has to come off and then the serpentine belt itself. Loosen the alternator and swing it out of the way. Do the same for the Power Steering pump. Loosen the Air Conditioning compressor (do not disconnect it as this will result in coolant loss and a mess, possible violations of the clean air act) and remove the belt, then swing it out of the way. Find something to secure the crankshaft pulley from rotating and remove the bolt holding it on. Fit the puller over the pulley and remove it. (Note, it may be possible to remove the crankshaft bolt before any of the accessories or belts and use tension on the belts to prevent the engine from rotating) With the crankshaft pulley removed, remove all of the covers on the front of the engine to expose the timing belt. MARK THE POSITION OF THE TWO CAM SPROCKETS AT THIS POINT TO ALLOW YOU TO ALIGN THEM PROPERLY LATER. Release the tensioner and remove the timing belt. Also, at this time, the water pump will be fully exposed and it is a GREAT idea to replace this at this time also to prevent going through all of this again should the old pump fail. Essentially reverse the process to finish the repair. I used high heat permatex on all surfaces to keep as much dirt out as possible during the re-assembly and subsequent operation of the car. Be sure to torque the bolt securing the pulley to the crankshaft to the proper specification, which I cannot remember right now and I do not have my car manual handy. This can easily be found in Hayes or Chiltons, or through a search engine. If I have omitted anything feel free to update this as this was totally through memory having done this repair a few months ago.
The car will stop running
Yes, the water pump on a 3.5L is timing belt driven.Yes, the water pump on a 3.5L is timing belt driven.
It's behind the inspection cover it's run by the timing belt you should change this after 100,000 km you should also have the timing belt changed at the same time Chrysler didn't make a 1993 model year LHS.
The water pump is driven by the timing belt, to find it you must remove the serpentine belt, crankshaft damper, and timing belt cover.
The water pump is located behind the timing belt cover. It is driven by the timing belt. If you decide to replace it, replace the belt and idler pullys at the same time.
It is inside the front of the engine, driven by the timing belt.
It is inside the front of the engine, driven by the timing belt.
It is inside the front of the engine. Driven by the timing belt.
It is inside the front of the engine, driven by the timing belt.
It is inside the front of the engine, driven by the timing belt.
It is inside the front, driven by the timing belt.
On the 3.5L it is inside the front of the engine, driven by the timing belt.On the 3.5L it is inside the front of the engine, driven by the timing belt.