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This is for the front passenger side (left hand drive):
Time Required:
45 Minutes
Tools Needed:
- flat blade screwdriver
- floor jack
- 18mm box-end wrench
- 18mm deep well socket
- 15mm deep well socket
- breaker bar
- blue thread lock compound
Procedure:
1) Remove the coolant tank. There's one 10mm bolt holding it to the car, then you must use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the plastic tab back while pulling it off the mounting bracket.
2) Once the coolant tank is removed, you must carefully support the engine with a floor jack. It's best to use one with a wide contact patch and a rubber insert, but a normal floor jack with a piece of wood between the cup and the oil pan will suffice.
3) After you're sure the engine is supported, remove the two 18mm nuts on the driver side engine mount, closest to the valve cover. These nuts require a deep well socket.
4) Remove the three 15mm nuts from the engine mount bracket. After this, the mounting bracket and the rubber engine mount should come out easily. If not, carefully lift or lower the engine a little while having a friend wiggle the engine mount. Watch the fingers!
5) With an 18mm deep well socket on a breaker bar, remove the engine mount from the bracket. When I did this, it was a pain. It wouldn't hurt to have a bench vise to help you do this, or a friend to stand on the bracket while you remove the nut from the engine mount.
6) Place the new engine mount onto the bracket with the supplied 18mm nut and bolt. You should use a drop of threadlock on the new bolt before final assembly. Use an 18mm socket and a 18mm wrench to tighten it, making sure that the engine mount is oriented the same way as the original one.
7) Place the engine mount over the studs.
8) Replace the three 15mm nuts and tighten them down to hold the bracket in.
9) Replace the two 18mm nuts and tighten them down with a deep socket.
10) Lower the floor jack from the engine slowly, checking to make sure the mount holds securely.
13) Replace the coolant tank.
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