Not sure what an absober is. More info please.
www.hasport.com has clutch master cylinder adapters. Here is the info from their page: "The new master cylinder adapter allows the use of a Honda-style or Wilwood clutch master cylinder to convert a cable transmission vehicle to a hydraulic setup."
Look on the end of the clutch cable, if you can't find it have someone push the clutch, theres a nut, 12 mm I think but mine turned by hand easy enough, unscrew to make the clutch engage closer to the floor. The exact spec has you measure the free play at the top of the pedal, I don't that info handy, you can do it by feel, trial and error.
ford dealer should be able to help you with that info. make sure it is one with a service center on site.
Disconnect battery negative, Remove airflow meter and pipe, Disconnect clutch cable and remove clutch arm from gearbox (mind as clutch arm spacer falls out) Remove starter feed and trigger, Remove the three hex headed bolts that hold in starter, Remove starter, it will come out from the bottom and you may need to twist and turn it but trust me it does come out. Refit in reverse order You do not have to remove the clutch cable or arm, but for the rest the info above is correct.
Need more info!! Do you mean a 1991 Ford Ranger? By throttle do you mean the cable to the fuel system or the system itself? Fuel injection or carburetor?
We need more info here. How do you tell if the clutch has "WHAT" in a Pontiac Sunfire?
Um, somebody took it? Seriously, I'm guessing that you mean it goes to the floor with no resistance? We need a little more info here, please. FriPilot Is this car equipped with an automatic transmission? 1. Check to see if the clutch cable is broken or disconnected
you need to change the spring in the clutch cylinder ,you find more info on at alfa .net
if you look down where the clutch pedal is and look up to where it connects to the firewall you will see a medium sized pin or medal pole that the clutch pushes into if you look at that pole and follow it to where it meets the clutch pedal you will see a little nut on the pole turn the nut until the pole adjusts to the clutch pedal it will reduce play(more info that may apply to your problem)Pre 1997/9 models of Ford Vehicles were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure. There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on eBay etc.2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.Disconnect SPRING ON THE FOOT-PEDAL to release ratchet mechanism.Clamp cable slack (engine end).
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Need more info like year, make and model.