This is best left to an electrician. You're dealing with hazardous voltage in a breaker panel, in a tight area. It's very easy to accidentally touch something "hot". I don't recommend you do this procedure. <><><> Shut the main breaker off and use a battery light source to see what you are doing. After removing the panel cover you will be able to see what type of breakers are in the panel. There are two types, push-in or bolt-in. Shut the breaker you want to change-out to the off position. Remove the load wire from it. If the breaker is a push-in type, pry with moderate pressure to the side of the panel while lifting up on the breaker. If it is a bolt-in type just unscrew it from the bus bars. Install your new breaker: with a push-in breaker seat it firmly onto the bus with a hard push. With a bolt-in beaker a bit of caution should be taken not to cross-thread the screw into the bus. If this connection is not tight, arcing could result. Over time this connection could fail and may cause the panel to be changed out due to bus failure. Don't over torque the screw. Replace the load wire and cover and you are done. SAFETY ADVICE
Before you do any work yourself,
on household electricity supplies, equipment or appliances,
always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND
always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Before you change a circuit breaker it has to be established that the breaker is at fault and not some other part of the circuit.
A circuit breaker does not have a wire fuse in it.
To replace breakers in an electrical box it is extremely important the replace the breaker with the same wattage. Do not replace a 100 breaker with a 20 breaker is can cause damage.
Breaker boxes do not have fuses associated with them unless the main disconnect is independent from the breaker box. If that is the case both fuses have to be the same in the main disconnect that protects the breaker box.
Not unless you change the wiring for that circuit. The breaker protects the wiring and if you install a 40 amp breaker on a 15 amp wire circuit you will have a fire in your home.
Yes as long as you change the 50 amp breaker to a 15 amp breaker. You will be hard pressed to get the 50 amp #6 wire under the terminals of the 15 amp receptacle.
Yes, you may need to change your circuit breaker to one that can handle the higher voltage required for a 230 volt window AC unit. It's important to have a circuit breaker that is compatible with the voltage and amperage requirements of the appliance to ensure proper function and safety.
No, the 50 amp breaker should not be getting hot with a 17 amp load. Shut the service off at the disconnect and check the bolts that tighten the breaker to the distribution's bus bars. Check the tightness of the load side of the breaker. if all of these connections are tight then change the breaker out for a new one.
For typical residential house wiring 12 AWG wire is required for a 20 Amp breaker. If you change out the breaker for a 25 A breaker you would have to rewire the circuit with 10 AWG. In that case you could up the breaker to 30 Amps. All outlets and switches should be rated at the same voltage and current as the breaker.
The theme of "Breaker's Bridge" revolves around forgiveness, redemption, and the power of second chances. It explores how individuals can overcome past mistakes and make amends with those they have wronged.
Small size home breakers have a fixed setting and can not be adjusted. Three phase moulded case breakers have adjustable trip settings on the load side of the breaker. These overloads can be set for motor inrush to stop the breaker from needless tripping and yet still protect the other equipment down stream from the breaker.
A circuit breaker is dual function. The only time it will trip is if it senses a fault current that is rated higher than the breaker rating (short circuit). The other trip condition is if the circuit is overloaded and is drawing a current higher than the breaker rating. On breakers that protect motor feeders the breaker has to be rated 250% higher than the motors full load amperage. If the breaker has lots of use and is used for a switch being manually turned off and on will weaken the trip value of the breaker. If you have access to, or know an electrician, a clamp on amp meter on the conductor that the breaker feeds will tell you what is happening. Clamp the line and turn on the load to see exactly what the current is. If, like you say, the breaker is properly rated and the current is within the breaker limits then change out the breaker for a new one.