Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader. Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader.
the ignition switch
i have one here at my shop. my tech says that the ignition module in the distributer will go out about every 5 yrs or so. not a bad fix
It will not run if you bypass the ignition module (no spark).
You Don't
buy a DFVATS Bypass Module from www.bakerelectronix.com
you cant you have to get a bypass module.
There is no such thing as a bypass module. The best I can figure is the Body Control Module. If this is the case then you will have to find a shop with a scanner to do it. If you have NOT made the necessary repairs then the light WILL come back on.
On the drivers side kick panle.
The easiest way to bypass the antitheft module in your 1997 Buick Skylark is to remove the fuse. The location of the antitheft module fuse is listed on the inside cover of the fuse box.
The easiest way to bypass the theft deterrent module is to remove the fuse. The location of the fuse can be found on the inside cover of the fuse box.
The 2000 Cadillac traction control module can be found on each wheel. There is a total of four traction control modules.
could be numerous reasons, such a bad courtesy light switch on either of the 4 doors, a grounded courtesy switch wire, or possibly an entry module fault ( when you push in the lock button, and the interior lights come on ) . Good luck