I'm going to tell you only one way, since the typical front-end shop will use the "other way" in the interest of time. The "other way" (using a pickle fork) will trash the boots and usually bugger the tapered shaft. They're going to throw them away anyway.
First, a warning: Back off the torsion bar adjusters before going any further! There's one on each side under the lower control arm. Make sure they're loose in their mounting slots so that no tension remains on the front end components. The car-friendly way:
# Remove brake drum, caliper, and/or rotor. On a drum brake car, you don't need to worry about removing the brake line from the cylinder, or the cylinder from the backing plate. They will all come off as an assembly in the next step.
# Remove the two large bolts from the lower ball joint. Note how these bolts sandwich brake components together so you can reassemble them in the correct order later. # Remove the lower ball joint's cotter pin from the tapered shaft, and back the nut off 2-3 turns. Do not fully remove the nut at this point. Place the proper puller over the spindle and press the tapered shaft out. Make sure to get one of the small, thick-armed puller designed especially for this. Using the typical hinged "gear puller" will cause you a lot of grief. Believe me; it's worth it to get the correct puller! Obviously, you'll need to remove the nut before you can go any further. I leave the nut on during this operation to avoid damaging the threads while using the puller. This will completely separate the lower ball joint from the car. # Pull the upper tapered shaft the same as you did with the lower ball joint.
# Next is the special socket that fits over the upper ball joint. The ball joints have very shallow threads formed into their sides that pull them into the control arms, so they're unscrewed just like a huge, short bolt. Don't try it with slip-joint pliers; you'll need at least a 1/2" breaker bar on the correct socket. They're tight! There's two different sized sockets to cover all manner of Mopar. I believe it's the smaller for earlier "A" bodies (through '72?), then the larger fits everything else. I found both of mine in a used tool shop for cheap, because nobody knew what they were! It's a Chevy world around my place...
There are four ball-and-socket joints in the human body: the hip and shoulder joints, as well as the joints in the thumb and big toe.
the different groups of joints in the body are saddle joints gliding joints hinge joints and ball and socket joints .
The joints in our body is Pivot joint,Hinge joint,Gliding joints and Ball-and-Socket joint.
The hip joint and the shoulder joint are the two joints in the body that are considered ball-in-socket joints. These joints allow for a wide range of motion in multiple directions due to the spherical shape of the ball-like bone fitting into the socket-like bone.
ball & socket
Most joints in the human body are synovial joints. Synovial joints are the most common type of joint, allowing for various types of movement due to the presence of synovial fluid. Ball and socket joints, such as the hip and shoulder joints, are a specific type of synovial joint characterized by a spherical head fitting into a cup-like socket.
The largest joints in the body are the ball-and-socket joints of the shoulder (humerus and clavicle) and the hip (pelvis and femur).
The three main types of joints in the body are: ball-and-socket joints (hip and shoulder), hinge joints (knee and elbow), and pivot joints (neck).
Ball an socket, pivot, hinge, and gliding joints.
ball & socket joint , gliding joint , hinge joint
At the shoulder and hip joints.
in the hip and shoulder.