Note: Starting in the 2000 model year, Ford Taurus / Mercury Sables do not have inner tie rods.UPDATE: Autozone does not list an inner for 2000+ models, but, O'Rielly's does
Replacement Procedure- Safely jack up and secure the side of the vehicle
- Remove the wheel
- buy or rent a tie rod puller tool and ball joint separator tool.
NOTE: Pickle fork versus a Pitman Arm Puller - pickle forks will likely destroy the grease boot on the outer tie rod! Pitman arm pullers are an excellent alternative and will not break the rubber
- Remove the outer tie rod fastening nut and separate from the steering knuckle
- use two wrenches 1 to hold the tie rod end nut the other to unscrew the tie rod end (outer tie rod).
Count the number of threads when unscrewing the end from the inner. When reassembling, you'll want the tie rod end screwed onto the new inner exactly the same number of threads to *mostly* preserve the alignment.
- there is a rubber boot on the controller arm end of the inner tie rod held on with a special type of metal clamp. Remove it and the boot.
TIP: these boot clamps are a real bear to get at and usually end up being cut. I have used a simple nylon zip-tie as a replacement for the clamp - a whole lot easier to put on.
- Remove inner tie rod - use the tool you rented, or possibly just a a wrench on the connecting nut will work
NOTE: I found on a 2002 Focus the connecting 'nut' on the inside end of the tie rod had NO FLAT SIDES!! No wrench or inner tie rod tool was going to work. I tried all sorts of pipe wrenches to no success. Ended up using a pair of channel lock pliers to grab onto the darned thing and got it loose.
- Install new inner tie rod and boot
- Screw the outer tie rod onto the new inner rod, the same number of turns as on the old one.
If you are off by several turns you may not notice much (pulling to one side) but it will effect your tires, so I do recommend a front wheel alignment after a tie rod replacement.
- Reattach tie rod end to steering knuckle - bolt and cotter pin (torque is somewhere in the 30 ft lb range).
AnswerRemove the boot covering the end of the steering rack, There should be a thin flat washer between the tie rod and the steering rack that is flattened over the end of the inner tie rod end. Pry up the flattened points, unscrew the tie rod and reinstall.
Note: Starting in the 2000 model year,
Ford Taurus / Mercury Sables don't have inner tie rods.
Replacing Outer Tie Rod EndThe correct way to remove and replace the outer tie rods is to, remove the cotter pin, take a ball peen hammer and as accurately, but with deliberate force, hit the "pin" (The threaded pin protruding through the control arm) in an upward motion until the tie rod unseats. Then, look at the tie rod, you will notice that the tie rod actually "screws" onto the rod coming out of the rack and pinion. At this point, there may or may not be a small nut and bolt assembly that "pinches" the tie rod end in place on the threaded end of the rod. Loosen and remove the nut and bolt. Again, looking at the section of the rod that the tie rod threads onto, you will notice a "slot" if you will, or rather a flat spot on the rod with another on the opposite side. This will allow your to use a crescent wrench or adjustable pliers (channel locks) to grip the rod while you turn the tie rod to unscrew it. Before you unscrew it, look at and remember the "clock position" of the tie rod pin. It should be at the six o'clock position. Turning it counter clockwise, count the amount of turns needed to remove it. (Some models had to be turned clockwise to remove it. And again, some models had one side that was clockwise and the other counters clockwise.) The reason, you do this is because, after replacing them, the alignment may be off. This way when you screw them back on, you start the ending clock position, (where the pin was when it finally came off.) Always start the new tie rod back on where the old one came off. (i.e.: if when it came off, the clock position was at three o'clock, but you started at six, you will put the new tie rod on at three and turn it until it reaches six, then you start counting the turns until you reach the same position the old one started, back at six.) You will have to get your alignment checked after so do it quickly as not to wear out your tires.
Jaybird1980
outer tie rod - get the parts first verify they are the same (length and style) # loosen jam nut to outer tie rod (the nut that is threaded on the inner tie rod just behind the outer tie rod.)
# remove cotter pin - loosen castle nut or if it has a locking nut just remove the nut - located on the bottom side of where the tie rod goes through the steering knuckle. Air tools make life easier in this situation.
# Using a tie rod separator tool (pickle fork) and separate the tie rod from the spindle (takes a few blows) If you don't have this tool you can just use a hammer but be accurate and careful when swinging.
# After separation, you should be able to un-thread the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod. (leave the jam nut on or if new tie rod comes with a new jam nut take off the old by first marking a reference point where the old nut is. either count threads or take a paint marker or even tape. This keeps the toe align angle roughly where it should be.
# Reverse procedure with new part (tip use anti seize compound on the inner tie rod threads so when aligned it does not seize up over a long time down the road)
# Torque nuts to manufacture spec and replace cotter pin every time if it has a castle nut.