Strictly speaking the ceramic heater is also a resistance coil heater, the difference being that the coil is embedded in the ceramic, giving a bigger heat-emitting surface.
In heating costs they'll be the same.
But having a bigger emitting surface operating at a lower temperature may give a "softer" heat.
A bit like filling a bucket of water from a shower head or a hose. It'll take just as much water, and take the same amount of time, but the wider spray from the shower head will hit softer than the jet from the hose.
The heater coil and a heater core is the same thing. Hot water circulates from the engine and through the heater core then back to engine generating heat for your heater system.
coil building
Loosen the clamps and carefully twist the hose where it connects to the heater core. If you are wanting to bypass the heater core, just run one of the hoses between the two places on the motor where they connect or put a short piece of pipe between the two hoses.
Normally the terminals are marked on the coil ( if it's a bosch coil the one marked 15 is the primary winding positive terminal ). The large center one is the secondary positive ( the one that leads to your distributor ) and the two on the sides of it are the positive primary and the ground. If you don't know wich one is wich disconect the battery then disconnect the two smaller wires and remember wich one goes where. Use an ohm meter to test the resistance between a good ground on the body or engine block on each wire. The one that has no or very low resistance is the ground wire. If you are holding a coil in your hand and it isn't marked use the ohm meter to check the resistance between the secondary positive and the other two terminals. There should be infinite resistance ( open circuit ) to the positive of the secondary and 6Kohms or there abouts to the common ground terminal.
Hope This Help.TESTING Ignition Coil TestThe ignition coil must be diagnosed separately from the rest of the ignition system.Primary resistance is measured between the two primary (low voltage) coil terminals, with the coil connector disconnected and the ignition switch off. Primary resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms.On Dura Spark ignitions, the secondary resistance is measured between the BATT and high voltage (secondary) terminals of the ignition coil with the ignition OFF , and the wiring from the coil disconnected. Secondary resistance must be 8,000-11,500 ohms.If resistance tests are okay, but the coil is still suspected, test the coil on a coil tester by following the test equipment manufacturer's instructions for a standard coil. If the reading differs from the original test, check for a defective wiring harness.Ignition Coil Primary Circuit SwitchingInsert a small straight pin in the wire which runs from the coil negative (-) terminal to the TFI module, about 1 in. (25mm) from the module.WARNINGThe pin must not touch ground!Connect a 12 VDC test lamp between the straight pin and an engine ground.Crank the engine, noting the operation of the test lamp. If the test lamp flashes, proceed to the next test. If the test lamp lights but does not flash, proceed to the Wiring Harness test. If the test lamp does not light at all, proceed to the Primary Circuit Continuity test.Ignition Coil ResistanceRefer to the General Testing for an explanation of the resistance tests. Replace the ignition coil if the resistance is out of the specification range.Ignition Coil Secondary VoltageDisconnect the secondary (high voltage) coil wire from the distributor cap and install a spark tester between the coil wire and ground.Crank the engine. A good, strong spark should be noted at the spark tester. If spark is noted, but the engine will not start, check the spark plugs, spark plug wiring, and fuel system. If there is no spark at the tester: Check the ignition coil secondary wire resistance; it should be no more than 5,000 ohms per foot. Inspect the ignition coil for damage and/or carbon tracking. With the distributor cap removed, verify that the distributor shaft turns with the engine; if it does not, repair the engine as required. If the fault was not found proceed to the Ignition Coil Primary Voltage test.Ignition Coil Primary VoltageAttach the negative lead of a voltmeter to the distributor base.Turn the ignition switch ON and connect the positive voltmeter lead to the negative (-) ignition coil terminal. Note the voltage reading and turn the ignition OFF . If the voltmeter reading is less than 90 percent of the available battery voltage, inspect the wiring between the ignition module and the negative (-) coil terminal, then proceed to the Ignition Coil Supply Voltage test.Ignition Coil Supply VoltageAttach the negative lead of a voltmeter to the distributor base.Turn the ignition switch ON and connect the positive voltmeter lead to the positive (+) ignition coil terminal. Note the voltage reading then turn the ignition OFF . If the voltage reading is at least 90 percent of the battery voltage, yet the engine will still not run; first, check the ignition coil connector and terminals for corrosion, dirt, and/or damage; second, replace the ignition switch if the connectors and terminal are okay.Connect any remaining wiring.REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Carbureted EnginesDisconnect the battery ground.Disconnect the two small and one large wires from the coil.Disconnect the condenser connector from the coil, if equipped.Unbolt and remove the coil.Installation is the reverse of removal.Fuel Injected EnginesSee Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4Fig. Fig. 1: Disengage the high tension wire by pulling on the connector boot-fuel injected enginesFig. Fig. 2: Separate the wiring harness connection at the coilFig. Fig. 3: Unscrew the coil from its bracket mountFig. Fig. 4: Remove the coil from the enginePulling on the connector boot, disconnect the high tension lead at the coil.Disconnect the wiring at the ignition coil.Remove the ignition coil-to-bracket attaching screws, then remove the coil.To install:Install the coil, tightening the screws to 25-35 inch lbs. (2.8-4.0 Nm).Connect the ignition coil wiring harness and the high tension lead.
Ceramic space heaters are considered better than resistance coil heaters because they provide quicker and more even heat distribution. They are also safer to use as the ceramic heating element stays cooler to the touch compared to the hot coils in a resistance heater. Additionally, ceramic heaters are more energy efficient, helping to save on electricity costs.
Typically resistance rises with temperature.
Typically resistance rises with temperature.
A ceramic heater works by using ceramic plates or elements inside the heater that heat up when electricity passes through them. The heat is then transferred to the surrounding air, warming up the room. The ceramic material is ideal for heating as it is quick to heat up and retains heat well.
The energy transfers in the electric coil of a baseboard heater involve electrical energy being converted to thermal energy through the resistance of the coil. When current flows through the coil, the resistance generates heat, which warms the surrounding air in the room.
The formula you are looking for is R = E/I. Resistance = Volts/Amps.
By measuring its resistance with an accurate multimeter provided the coil is not blown. If less resistance compared to that of the other coil would decide that it is less number turn.
The heater coil glows because it has high resistance, causing it to generate heat. The supply wire does not glow because it has much lower resistance compared to the coil, which allows it to carry the current without generating significant heat. Additionally, the supply wire is usually made of a material that can withstand the current passing through it without glowing.
A small resistance in the coil will yield greater heat output in an electric heater. This is because a small resistance allows for a larger current to flow through the coil, which in turn generates more heat due to the increased power dissipation (P = I^2 * R).
Conduction and Radiation - NOVANET
Electricity is converted to heat energy in the electric coil of a baseboard heater. The electrical energy is transformed into thermal energy when the current flows through the coil, creating resistance and generating heat.
The current flowing through the heating coil will depend on the resistance of the coil and the voltage of the power source. Using Ohm's Law (I = V/R), where I is the current, V is the voltage, and R is the resistance, you can calculate the current. The higher the voltage or lower the resistance, the higher the current.