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Jack up one front side of the car. Take the wheel off and then undo the 32mm axle nut. It's normally bloody tight on there and needs to be, use a 32mm socket and breaker bar to get it off, you might need to stand on the breaker bar. You can also use a big open ended or ring spanner for this, provided you can get access to the nut (the cowling around the nut makes this difficult). Then take the nut off the bottom of the lower ball joint (it has a split pin, you'll need to get that out first.) The ball joint is the part that attaches the hub to the swingarm, swingarm is the curved bit that attaches the hub to the engine crossmember. With either a really big lever (5ft long metal bar with a flat end works good) or a ball joint separator, separate the the swingarm from the hub. A crowcar can be used for this by placing it between the top of the swingarm and the bolt housing on the back of the hub. You should be able to pull the suspension with the hub away from the swingarm towards the front of the car now, although you may need to unbolt the sway bar if you haven't already. Be careful not to stretch a brake line too far. As you pull it away, pull the axle out of the hub. It is splined and usually very difficult to remove, often requiring the use of a hammer to disconnect. If you are not replacing the entire cv joint (just the boots) then be careful not to burr the thread or you will not be able to put the axle nut back on later.
Now there is a pin in the inner CV cup that holds the cup to the gearbox (If you can't see the pin then you will have to turn the axle while the car is out of gear). You will need a punch tool the right size to fit in the hole in the cup for this. I use a screw driver with the head cut off for this, don't use a normal flat or Philip head screw driver to bash this pin out it's a bad idea. Hammer the pin until it falls out the other side. Now that you have the shaft out of the hub and the pin out of the cup, pull on the shaft really hard and it should pop off the gearbox. It may be jammed, and tapping on the part of the shaft between the transmission and inner boot whilst pulling will make removal easier. What might happen is you might pull the inner CV apart which will stretch the boot, so watch out for this. The only thing holding the race in the cup (the race is the bit with the balls on it that goes on the end of the shaft to hold it in the cup making up the Constant Velocity joint) is a circlip running around the outer edge of the cup, this sometimes pulls out. In which case can make it very hard to remove the cup from the gearbox. You might be able to lever it off with something, pretty much make it up as you go along using logic. This circlip isn't strictly necessary seeing as the cv joint is held in by the ball joint on the swingarm, thus mechanics will often neglect replacing it when they reinstall a cv joint.
Hopefully you will have the drive shaft out in one piece by now. To put it all back together (without doing the RWD conversion) do the reverse of what has been said taking note to these few things. Make sure the pin in the inner CV cup is tight and wont fall out, sometimes getting a new one is the best option here. Make sure you replace all the split pins on all the nuts that had them (lower ball joint nut and axle nut.) Replacing these with new ones is a good idea again.
If you just want to replace a boot on the shaft follow these steps.
Unclip the boot from the inner cup and pull it back along the shaft towards the outer CV. Pull the ring out that holds the race into the cup. Be careful not to bend this ring as it does stop the joint from pulling apart when in the car. Now pull the cup off the shaft. Remove the split ring on the end of the shaft that holds the race onto the shaft. Now pull the race off taking note which way round the race was put on the shaft . Now you should be able to pull both boots off and replace which ever one you want.
For replacing the whole shaft, well that's just simple, just get a new one and put it in the place of the old one :-P
If your inner CV is damaged, i.e. making clicking noises, you can just replace the race, and maybe the inner cup to fix this which will cost a fraction of the price of a new driveshaft.
Also remember to re-grease everything in the joints with Moly grease, or also known as molybdenum disulfide grease.
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