One can purchase a photodiode from retail stores like Target, Walmart and many more. One can also purchase a photodiode from online websites like eBay or Amazon.
1 answer
since the mouse having photodiode installed in them are so fast in response and have less chances of damage.
1 answer
A photodiode is a semiconductor device that converts light into electrical current. It is commonly used in optoelectronic devices such as light sensors, solar cells, and barcode scanners. The function of a photodiode is to detect and measure light intensity by generating a current proportional to the incident light.
3 answers
A light-emitting diode (LED) emits light when an electric current passes through it. A photodiode, on the other hand, generates an electric current when exposed to light. In summary, an LED produces light, while a photodiode detects light.
2 answers
The main advantages of the avalanche photodiode include:
The disadvantages of the avalanche photodiode include:
1 answer
The photodiode's voltage drop varies with the temperature and current flowing through it. The typical voltage drop (VBIAS - VREF) across the MAX4007 series is 0.8V, with a guaranteed maximum of 1.1V.
1 answer
A photodetector is a device that detects light or other electromagnetic radiation, while a photodiode is a specific type of photodetector that converts light into an electrical signal. In other words, all photodiodes are photodetectors, but not all photodetectors are photodiodes.
1 answer
The Simplest Difference is that LED emits Light, & Photodiode converts Light energy into electrical Energy
2 answers
A photodiode absorbs sunlight (photons) and converts it to a current (flow of electrons) or a voltage (separation of electrons)
1 answer
LDRs are switches (when the light hits them they allow electricity to flow if there is a full circuit). So LDRs are different to photodiodes in that way!
1 answer
A light dependent resistor (LDR) is used for the detection of light.
A photodiode is a device that converts light into an electrical current.
1 answer
Phillip Wayne Kelton has written:
'Astronomical spectroscopy through real time computer control of photodiode array detectors'
1 answer
Any device that has the ability to convert energy could be called a transducer. Some types of transducers are electrical, chemical, mechanical, and acoustic.
2 answers
2 answers
photodiodes are basically reverse biased diodes with optical windows that allow like to shine on the PN junction. Like any diode, the leakage current (otherwise known as a photodiodes 'dark' current) increases exponentually with temperature in accordance to William Shockley's idea diode eqation. The other effect in a photo diode is the probability of a photon of a certain energy allowing an electron to cross the PN junction. This is known as the quantum efficiency of the photodiode. Because increasing temperatures increase the vibration of the silicon atoms, making them easier to be knocked loose by a photon. Thus the quantum efficiency of a photodiode will increase with tempature, as well as the thermally induced noise. photodiodes are basically reverse biased diodes with optical windows that allow like to shine on the PN junction. Like any diode, the leakage current (otherwise known as a photodiodes 'dark' current) increases exponentually with temperature in accordance to William Shockley's idea diode eqation. The other effect in a photo diode is the probability of a photon of a certain energy allowing an electron to cross the PN junction. This is known as the quantum efficiency of the photodiode. Because increasing temperatures increase the vibration of the silicon atoms, making them easier to be knocked loose by a photon. Thus the quantum efficiency of a photodiode will increase with tempature, as well as the thermally induced noise. photodiodes are basically reverse biased diodes with optical windows that allow like to shine on the PN junction. Like any diode, the leakage current (otherwise known as a photodiodes 'dark' current) increases exponentually with temperature in accordance to William Shockley's idea diode eqation. The other effect in a photo diode is the probability of a photon of a certain energy allowing an electron to cross the PN junction. This is known as the quantum efficiency of the photodiode. Because increasing temperatures increase the vibration of the silicon atoms, making them easier to be knocked loose by a photon. Thus the quantum efficiency of a photodiode will increase with tempature, as well as the thermally induced noise.
1 answer
A photodiode is a semiconductor device that converts light into electrical current. It is commonly used in various electronic and optical devices for detection and sensing applications. A solar cell, on the other hand, is designed to convert sunlight directly into electricity through the photovoltaic effect. Solar cells are typically larger in size and used in solar panels to generate renewable energy.
6 answers
A photodiode is a type of photodetector capable of converting light into either current or voltage, depending upon the mode of operation. Its characteristics is same as that of an ordinary diode, except that it depends on light.
1 answer
The device you are referring to is a photoelectric cell or a photodiode. When light shines on the metal surface of these devices, electrons are emitted in a process called the photoelectric effect, which generates an electric current.
1 answer
A light meter is typically used to measure light intensity. It can measure the amount of light in the environment in lux or foot-candles. Light meters are commonly used in photography, cinematography, and environmental monitoring.
2 answers
Tamer F. Refaat has written:
'Temperature control of avalanche photodiode using thermoelectric cooler' -- subject(s): Infrared detectors, Temperature control, Solid state devices, Avalanche diodes, Photodiodes
1 answer
Incident radiation can be measured using instruments such as a radiometer or a photodiode. These devices can quantify the intensity and wavelength of the radiation. The units typically used to measure incident radiation are watts per square meter (W/m^2).
1 answer
The laser light is reflected off of the CD and the returning light hits the 4 photodiode array. It not only picks up the information it helps track the bits. To do this it has to follow several paths. They use splitters, colminators and full mirrors.
1 answer
Courtesy of MACCGP.com
Replacing the HUD Photodiode
by Bill Whitmer
Tools Needed:
Medium to Large Philips screwdriver
Very Small Flat Head screwdriver
T-15 Torx Bit or Driver
25w or less (not more!) Soldering Iron, with fine tip
Vacuum Desoldering Tool
Drill with 15/32" Bit
Small needle nose pliers
Parts Needed:
Very small amount of 1/8" diameter head shrink tubing.
Solder
Replacement Photodiode
2x PDB-C142-ND from www.digikey.com wired in series works well (these look like LED's but they aren't). They are $1.50 each. PDB-V106-ND appears to be almost identical to the original, but it is
a $7 non-stock item with a minimum order quantity of 8.
This write up is for cars where the HUD photodiode is bad and the
resoldering technique doesn't work.
Step 1: Remove HUD Pod from Dash
This can be done by raising the front of the HUD pod by about 1" then
pulling forward to release the quick clips. The quick clips can be tricky
to remove without losing them in the dash. The security LED and auto
headlight sensor simply twist out of their holder.
Step 2: Remove HUD from Dash
First unplug the blue connector from the left side of the HUD module.
Next remove the two Philips screws on the HUD module on the side closest
to the engine bay. The HUD should come out by pulling up on the side
closest to the steering wheel, it still has two quick clips holding it
down. Be careful not to scratch the dashboard when removing the HUD.
Step 3: Disassemble the HUD Module
Remove the four Torx T-15 Screws from the Top of the HUD Module. Remove
the ribbon Cable from the PCB, and the maroon two wire connector also.
Remove the PCB by pushing up on the two clips.
Step 4: Remove the Photodiode
Make sure the soldering iron is at full temperature. Desolder the joints
on the photodiode by heating them up with the soldering iron until they
melt, and using the vacuum desoldering tool while the joint is liquid.
Place the small flathead screwdriver between the photodiode and the PCB.
Again heat up each joint on the photodiode, and use the screwdriver to pry
the photodiode loose. Pry only a small amount on one joint at a time
until the photodiode comes loose, in order not to damage the PCB.
Step 5: Join the new photodiodes (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)
The reason to use two photodiodes in series is that these only output .5v,
and the original photodiode outputs 1.00v, the original part number is
BPW21 from Vishay Semiconductor or Infineon, but I have been unable to
find a supplier for this part. Cut the positive (long) leg on one of the
new photodiodes, and cut the negative (short) leg on the other. Cut both
to about 1/4" long. Bend both cut legs 90 degrees. Solder the two cut
legs together. Cover the solder joint with a small amount of 1/8"
diameter heat shrink tubing. Cut the remaining two legs on the
photodiodes to about 1/4". It is very important to remember which one is
positive (originally long) and which one is negative (originally short.
Bend the remaining legs to match up with the photodiode holes on the PCB.
Step 6: Attach the new photodiodes to the PCB
You will need to remove the coating on the PCB where you will be
soldering, it cam be easily scraped off. Melt a small amount of solder in
the holes where the original photodiode was soldered, on the bottom (no
components) side of the PCB. The hole that is closest to the edge of the
PCB is negative, the innermost hole is positive. Attach the photodiodes
by placing the correct leg of the new photodiodes against the correct
hole on the top side of the PCB, and applying heat to the bottom side of
the PCB to melt the solder. Make sure the joint is good.
Step 7: Modify the top HUD module cover (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)
The new photodiodes won't fit through the hole on the top cover for the
HUD module. Simply drill out the hole, I used a 15/32" drill bit.
Step 8: Reassemble everything
Put the PCB back in the HUD module, reconnect the two connectors, and
screw it back together. Put the HUD module back in the dash, reconnect
the connector, and put the two Philips screws back in. Now is a good time
to see if the HUD works properly. Replace the HUD pod, first reattach the
auto headlight sensor and security LED, the HUD pod simply presses into
place.
Enjoy having a working HUD again!
Thanks goes out to the people who discovered the photodiode resoldering technique.
1 answer
A tungsten lamp is commonly used in a spectrophotometer as a light source due to its broad and continuous spectrum that covers the visible and near-infrared range. Additionally, deuterium lamps are often utilized for ultraviolet wavelengths in spectrophotometers.
2 answers
A photodetector, such as a photodiode or a photomultiplier tube, is commonly used for the detection of light. These devices convert light into an electrical signal that can be measured and analyzed.
3 answers
H. G. Safren has written:
'Effect of atmospheric turbulence on the bit error probability of a space to ground near infrared laser communications link using binary pulse position modulation and an avalanche photodiode detector' -- subject(s): Laser communication systems, Atmospheric turbulence
1 answer
A photovoltaic cell is a device that converts light energy into electrical energy. When sunlight hits the cell, it excites electrons in the material, creating a flow of electricity. This electrical energy can then be used to power various devices or stored in batteries for later use.
2 answers
A DAD (diode array detector) uses an array of diodes to measure absorbance at multiple wavelengths simultaneously, providing spectral information. A PDA (photodiode array detector) is a type of DAD that specifically uses photodiodes for detection. Both detectors are commonly used in chromatography to detect and quantify analytes in a sample.
2 answers
1 answer
The fractional change due to intensity on minority charge carriers is more than on majority charge carriers. When light is directly polarized it acts like a normal diode but when reverse polarized its current depends on the brightness (intensity of incident light).
2 answers
A light pen works by detecting light emitted by a computer monitor or screen when the pen's tip touches the surface. The pen has a light-sensitive photodiode at the tip, which detects the light and sends a signal back to the computer to identify the pen's position on the screen. This allows users to interact with software by pointing and selecting on the screen.
2 answers
A CCD is a group of photocells. Photocells are cells that react to a broad range of light rays. CCD's convert light into an electric charge.
2 answers
I am 99.9% sure that it is the light sensor located on the HUD board. I had this same problem several times - simply requires removing the board and re-soldering the sensor. There is a great write up out there with step by step instructions on the web, check grandprix.net or do a search for fixing the Heads up display light sensor.
Answer 3Courtesy of MACCPGP.comReplacing the HUD Photodiode
by Bill Whitmer
Tools Needed:
Medium to Large Philips screwdriver
Very Small Flat Head screwdriver
T-15 Torx Bit or Driver
25w or less (not more!) Soldering Iron, with fine tip
Vacuum Desoldering Tool
Drill with 15/32" Bit
Small needle nose pliers
Parts Needed:
Very small amount of 1/8" diameter head shrink tubing.
Solder
Replacement Photodiode
2x PDB-C142-ND from www.digikey.com wired in series works well (these look like LED's but they aren't). They are $1.50 each. PDB-V106-ND appears to be almost identical to the original, but it is
a $7 non-stock item with a minimum order quantity of 8.
This write up is for cars where the HUD photodiode is bad and the
resoldering technique doesn't work.
Step 1: Remove HUD Pod from Dash
This can be done by raising the front of the HUD pod by about 1" then
pulling forward to release the quick clips. The quick clips can be tricky
to remove without losing them in the dash. The security LED and auto
headlight sensor simply twist out of their holder.
Step 2: Remove HUD from Dash
First unplug the blue connector from the left side of the HUD module.
Next remove the two Philips screws on the HUD module on the side closest
to the engine bay. The HUD should come out by pulling up on the side
closest to the steering wheel, it still has two quick clips holding it
down. Be careful not to scratch the dashboard when removing the HUD.
Step 3: Disassemble the HUD Module
Remove the four Torx T-15 Screws from the Top of the HUD Module. Remove
the ribbon Cable from the PCB, and the maroon two wire connector also.
Remove the PCB by pushing up on the two clips.
Step 4: Remove the Photodiode
Make sure the soldering iron is at full temperature. Desolder the joints
on the photodiode by heating them up with the soldering iron until they
melt, and using the vacuum desoldering tool while the joint is liquid.
Place the small flathead screwdriver between the photodiode and the PCB.
Again heat up each joint on the photodiode, and use the screwdriver to pry
the photodiode loose. Pry only a small amount on one joint at a time
until the photodiode comes loose, in order not to damage the PCB.
Step 5: Join the new photodiodes (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)
The reason to use two photodiodes in series is that these only output .5v,
and the original photodiode outputs 1.00v, the original part number is
BPW21 from Vishay Semiconductor or Infineon, but I have been unable to
find a supplier for this part. Cut the positive (long) leg on one of the
new photodiodes, and cut the negative (short) leg on the other. Cut both
to about 1/4" long. Bend both cut legs 90 degrees. Solder the two cut
legs together. Cover the solder joint with a small amount of 1/8"
diameter heat shrink tubing. Cut the remaining two legs on the
photodiodes to about 1/4". It is very important to remember which one is
positive (originally long) and which one is negative (originally short.
Bend the remaining legs to match up with the photodiode holes on the PCB.
Step 6: Attach the new photodiodes to the PCB
You will need to remove the coating on the PCB where you will be
soldering, it cam be easily scraped off. Melt a small amount of solder in
the holes where the original photodiode was soldered, on the bottom (no
components) side of the PCB. The hole that is closest to the edge of the
PCB is negative, the innermost hole is positive. Attach the photodiodes
by placing the correct leg of the new photodiodes against the correct
hole on the top side of the PCB, and applying heat to the bottom side of
the PCB to melt the solder. Make sure the joint is good.
Step 7: Modify the top HUD module cover (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)
The new photodiodes won't fit through the hole on the top cover for the
HUD module. Simply drill out the hole, I used a 15/32" drill bit.
Step 8: Reassemble everything
Put the PCB back in the HUD module, reconnect the two connectors, and
screw it back together. Put the HUD module back in the dash, reconnect
the connector, and put the two Philips screws back in. Now is a good time
to see if the HUD works properly. Replace the HUD pod, first reattach the
auto headlight sensor and security LED, the HUD pod simply presses into
place.
Enjoy having a working HUD again!
1 answer
An array of photocells that respond to a wide range of light rays is called a photodiode array. This array consists of multiple individual photodiodes that can detect light within a broad spectrum of wavelengths. These arrays are commonly used in various applications such as digital cameras and light sensors.
2 answers
One would first need to test the HUD, the HUD dimmer switch, related wiring as well as the IP Cluster fuse. One of these items could be faulty. Another item to check for is the wiring harness around the A?C accumulator. The wiring harness on the 97-03 Grand Prix was known to rub out and ground against the metal accumulator, causing electrical concerns including those you mention. Repair the harness and make sure it is snug. Insulate it to protect from further damage.
I am 99.9% sure that it is the light sensor located on the HUD board. I had this same problem several times - simply requires removing the board and re-soldering the sensor. There is a great write up out there with step by step instructions on the web, check grandprix.net or do a search for fixing the Heads up display light sensor.
3Courtesy of MACCPGP.comReplacing the HUD Photodiode
by Bill Whitmer
Tools Needed:
Medium to Large Philips screwdriver
Very Small Flat Head screwdriver
T-15 Torx Bit or Driver
25w or less (not more!) Soldering Iron, with fine tip
Vacuum Desoldering Tool
Drill with 15/32" Bit
Small needle nose pliers
Parts Needed:
Very small amount of 1/8" diameter head shrink tubing.
Solder
Replacement Photodiode
2x PDB-C142-ND from www.digikey.com wired in series works well (these look like LED's but they aren't). They are $1.50 each. PDB-V106-ND appears to be almost identical to the original, but it is
a $7 non-stock item with a minimum order quantity of 8.
This write up is for cars where the HUD photodiode is bad and the
resoldering technique doesn't work.
Step 1: Remove HUD Pod from Dash
This can be done by raising the front of the HUD pod by about 1" then
pulling forward to release the quick clips. The quick clips can be tricky
to remove without losing them in the dash. The security LED and auto
headlight sensor simply twist out of their holder.
Step 2: Remove HUD from Dash
First unplug the blue connector from the left side of the HUD module.
Next remove the two Philips screws on the HUD module on the side closest
to the engine bay. The HUD should come out by pulling up on the side
closest to the steering wheel, it still has two quick clips holding it
down. Be careful not to scratch the dashboard when removing the HUD.
Step 3: Disassemble the HUD Module
Remove the four Torx T-15 Screws from the Top of the HUD Module. Remove
the ribbon Cable from the PCB, and the maroon two wire connector also.
Remove the PCB by pushing up on the two clips.
Step 4: Remove the Photodiode
Make sure the soldering iron is at full temperature. Desolder the joints
on the photodiode by heating them up with the soldering iron until they
melt, and using the vacuum desoldering tool while the joint is liquid.
Place the small flathead screwdriver between the photodiode and the PCB.
Again heat up each joint on the photodiode, and use the screwdriver to pry
the photodiode loose. Pry only a small amount on one joint at a time
until the photodiode comes loose, in order not to damage the PCB.
Step 5: Join the new photodiodes (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)
The reason to use two photodiodes in series is that these only output .5v,
and the original photodiode outputs 1.00v, the original part number is
BPW21 from Vishay Semiconductor or Infineon, but I have been unable to
find a supplier for this part. Cut the positive (long) leg on one of the
new photodiodes, and cut the negative (short) leg on the other. Cut both
to about 1/4" long. Bend both cut legs 90 degrees. Solder the two cut
legs together. Cover the solder joint with a small amount of 1/8"
diameter heat shrink tubing. Cut the remaining two legs on the
photodiodes to about 1/4". It is very important to remember which one is
positive (originally long) and which one is negative (originally short.
Bend the remaining legs to match up with the photodiode holes on the PCB.
Step 6: Attach the new photodiodes to the PCB
You will need to remove the coating on the PCB where you will be
soldering, it cam be easily scraped off. Melt a small amount of solder in
the holes where the original photodiode was soldered, on the bottom (no
components) side of the PCB. The hole that is closest to the edge of the
PCB is negative, the innermost hole is positive. Attach the photodiodes
by placing the correct leg of the new photodiodes against the correct
hole on the top side of the PCB, and applying heat to the bottom side of
the PCB to melt the solder. Make sure the joint is good.
Step 7: Modify the top HUD module cover (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)
The new photodiodes won't fit through the hole on the top cover for the
HUD module. Simply drill out the hole, I used a 15/32" drill bit.
Step 8: Reassemble everything
Put the PCB back in the HUD module, reconnect the two connectors, and
screw it back together. Put the HUD module back in the dash, reconnect
the connector, and put the two Philips screws back in. Now is a good time
to see if the HUD works properly. Replace the HUD pod, first reattach the
auto headlight sensor and security LED, the HUD pod simply presses into
place.
Enjoy having a working HUD again!
1 answer
There is the photoelectric effect, which is the process that emitts electrons from a metals surface when light of a certain frequency shines on the surface. In the metal, the nuclei are surrounded by electrons, so when the incoming electrons strike the surface, they pull apart from the electrons of the metal because of how like charges detract from each other.
4 answers
To make a photoelectric cell to illuminate a room, you would need to use a light sensor (such as a photodiode or phototransistor) that detects ambient light levels and triggers a circuit to turn on artificial light sources like LEDs or bulbs. The sensor would need to be connected to a control circuit (such as a microcontroller) to regulate when the lights turn on or off based on the light levels detected. This setup would allow the photoelectric cell to automatically adjust the lighting in the room based on natural light conditions.
2 answers
Lets start from here.
Automatic nightlights need a photosensor such as a photodiode or phototransistor connected to an opamp. the opamp compares the photo sensors output with a fixed reference value and triggers a relay via a booster transistor to switch on your head lamps. Positioning is important so that rogue lighting does not trip the system off again till true daylight appears.
Switching the ignnition off....wirelessly, automatically after an event or what? i dont understand what question you want to ask there.
Timed lights would require a timer such as the ne555 connected in one shot mode. lots of info on the web for this.
programmable chips can be used but to make things as simple as possible, lets stick to the basics first. Cheers
david
Try this http://schematic-diagrams.com/2011/03/08/automatic-light-sensitive-headlights/
1 answer
L. A. Rasmussen has written:
'Surface topography of the lower part of Columbia Glacier, Alaska, 1974-1981'
'Surface velocity variations of the lower part of Columbia Glacier, Alaska, 1977-1981' -- subject(s): Columbia Glacier (Alaska), Glaciers
2 answers
To develop a stability-indicating HPLC method for febuxostat tablets, you can use a C18 column with a mobile phase of acetonitrile and phosphate buffer. Include a forced degradation study to identify the degradation products and optimize the method parameters accordingly. Utilize photodiode array detection and monitor at the absorbance maximum wavelength of febuxostat to ensure specificity and selectivity of the method.
2 answers
In a photo-diode when light is incident, the fractional increase in the majority carriers is much less than the fractional increase in the minority carriers. Consequently, the fractional change due to the photo-effects on the minority carrier dominated reverse bias current is more easily measurable than the fractional change due to the photo-effects on the majority carrier dominated forward bias current. Hence, photo-diodes are preferred to be used in the reverse bias condition to easily observe the variation of current with intensity.
2 answers
Ultraviolet light is not visible. Many ultraviolet lamps also emit some visible light along with the ultraviolet, typically visible violet. Also, ultraviolet light is an ionizing radiation, and will cause some flourescent materials to emit various visible wavelengths of light.
7 answers
You can test it by puting it in forward bias with a resistor. Use a dc voltage source of 5 volts and put it in series with 250 Ohms resistor. Or use 9volts with a 450 Ohms resistor. Basically you need 20mA of forward current usually. Smaller current will reduce brightness.
3 answers
Carotenoids are typically seen as bright-colored bands on a chromatogram when using techniques such as thin-layer chromatography or high-performance liquid chromatography. They separate based on their different chemical properties, allowing for their identification and quantification.
2 answers
To convert light signals into digitally formatted electrical signals requires a device called a camera.
Also, an optical fiber digital converter in the course of fiber optics. For electrical power transmission, photovoltaic cells convert light into power.
2 answers
Your question is not completely clear, but I'm going to guess what you might want. Here is a list of various types of devices that are/were used as diodes:
There are also a wide variety of two terminal devicesthat can be referred to as diodes, but can conduct in either direction:
1 answer
G. Tylden has written:
'The rise of the Basuto' -- subject(s): D. 1870, History, Sotho (African people)
'The armed forces of South Africa, with an appendix on the commandos' -- subject(s): Armed Forces, History, Military History
'Horses and Saddlery of the British Army'
8 answers