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Mapei was created in 1937.

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Mapei - cycling team - was created in 1993.

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Mapei - cycling team - ended in 2002.

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I have used that to stick lino tiles. It worked very well. Mapei glues are very good.

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Mapei Type 1 adhesive is recommended for installing ceramic, porcelain, and natural stone tiles on walls and floors.

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Mapei Eco300 is my favorite .

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there is a store finder on their website

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The Italian company Mapei produce a number of building material products. They manufacture and sell products including adhesives, thinsets and sealants.

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A vinyl tile glue will do that -Mapei Ecobond, in Home Depot.

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A general flooring tile adhesive like Mapei Ecobond 810

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Most are self adhesive

ANS 2 -Mapei Ultrrabond 300 is a good one.

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I would use one of the Mapei Ecobond adhesives. There is one specifically for this.

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contact cement

ANS 2 -NOT contact cement. -Use Mapei Ultramastic thin set cement for best results.

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Mapei Stadium - Città del Tricolore (previosuly called Stadio Giglio) opened on April 15, 1995.

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Yes you can if you first rough up the ceramic by sanding it. Use a vinyl mastic like Mapei Unibond.

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tile to wood? not a good idea. certainly not with adhesive. rip up the tile. it'll be worth the extra effort and expense

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To use Mapei tile mortar, follow these steps:

  1. Mix the mortar according to the package instructions.
  2. Apply the mortar to the substrate using a trowel.
  3. Press the tiles into the mortar, ensuring proper alignment.
  4. Allow the mortar to set for the recommended time before grouting.
  5. Clean any excess mortar from the tiles before it dries.

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A propriatory epoxy resin. Check out your hardware/do it yourself store.

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A tile mastic such as Mapei Ecobond. See the tile aisle in Rona or Home Depot for this product.

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To use Mapei ceramic tile mortar, follow these steps:

  1. Mix the mortar with water according to the package instructions.
  2. Apply the mortar to the substrate using a trowel.
  3. Press the tiles into the mortar, ensuring they are level and aligned.
  4. Allow the mortar to set for the recommended time before grouting.
  5. Clean any excess mortar from the tiles before it dries.

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You can if it's smooth and really sticking to the wall well enough. In this case, I would use a mastic style glue by Mapei.

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Don't tile over it. Take it down and sell it for a profit!

ANS 2 - One of the Mapei Tile glues. -they have adhesives suitable for anything.

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Polyseamseal silicone caulk would be the best caulking to use with bathroom tile, if you're not going to pain the caulk. If you desire to paint the caulk, MAPEI latex caulk would be best to use with the bathroom tile.

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It's usually available where they sell sheet vinyl (or lino). Some selections are available in Rona and Home Depot as well. -Any Mapei vinyl adhesive would work on sheet vinyl, and they are very good adhesives.

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If you are referring to Mapei Unibond then you put tiles on within 15 minutes. However, 'Unibond' is a different product in Britain and north America, and in fact I'm sure neither one is a PVA glue. -Check carefully on your container.

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Glue and Glass I'd say both Glue helps things when u need to put things together and it is really good for projects and also to fix broken things. Glass can help u drink beverages and it helps u see better thats what glasses were made for. Sometime a days when u are blind and u look through a glass u could see better because glasses and glass are the same but don't try to get blind and look through a glass it can cause really bad things for ur eyes.

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You can find heat-proof plaster at construction supply stores or home improvement centers. Look for brands like Mapei, Ardex, or Knauf which offer heat-resistant plaster specifically designed for use in high temperature environments like fireplaces or ovens. Additionally, you can check online retailers or specialty shops that cater to builders and contractors.

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I need to get some grout and tile cleaning spray from the store. Who makes the strongest stuff? The people renting this house must have never cleaned their shower even once because it is absolutely caked on.

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No, unless you are using extremely inexpensive tile. Self stick tile do best when an adhesive primer is applied to a clean, dry sub floor. After the install is complete, you need to use a 100 lb roller. The glue is not completely excreted from the tile until this is done.

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i found a solvent kind of glue called dichloroethene works well

ANS 2 - 'Plastic' is such a nebulous term. There are so many different plastics these days that a question like this is almost impossible to answer. - Polystyrene, Polyvinyl, vinyl, PVC, ABS, CPVC, plexiglass, Lucite, acrylite ,etc, are all 'Plastics' and each takes a different adhesive.

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You should use a specialized acrylic adhesive, such as a solvent-based acrylic glue or a two-part acrylic adhesive. Regular super glue or epoxy may not create a strong bond with acrylic surfaces. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for best results.

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AAC Block Jointing Mortar is a specialized adhesive designed for joining Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC) blocks. Its unique properties facilitate efficient and strong bonding, making AAC block installation easier.

Key Features:

  1. Non-sag: Maintains consistency, preventing sagging or flowing out of joints.
  2. Lightweight: Easy to handle and apply.
  3. High bonding strength: Ensures strong and durable joints.
  4. Low shrinkage: Minimizes cracks and maintains joint integrity.
  5. Water-resistant: Withstands moisture exposure.
  6. Easy to mix and apply: Simplifies installation process.

Benefits:

  1. Faster installation: Saves time and labor.
  2. Improved structural integrity: Enhances overall building stability.
  3. Reduced material waste: Optimizes AAC block usage.
  4. Enhanced durability: Extends lifespan of AAC blocks.
  5. Cost-effective: Reduces maintenance and repair costs.

Technical Specifications:

  1. Composition: Cement-based, polymer-modified mortar.
  2. Density: Approximately 1.5-1.8 g/cm³.
  3. Tensile strength: ≥ 1.5 MPa (216 psi).
  4. Compressive strength: ≥ 10 MPa (1450 psi).
  5. Water absorption: ≤ 5%.

Application Instructions:

  1. Prepare surface: Clean and dampen AAC blocks.
  2. Mix mortar: Follow manufacturer's instructions.
  3. Apply mortar: Use notched trowel or putty knife.
  4. Assemble blocks: Press blocks firmly into place.
  5. Finish joints: Tool or strike joints for smooth finish.

Popular Brands:

  1. Mapei
  2. Sika
  3. Fosroc
  4. Bostik
  5. Saint-Gobain

Alternatives:

  1. Epoxy-based adhesives
  2. Polyurethane-based adhesives
  3. Cement-based mortars (without polymers)

Precautions:

  1. Follow manufacturer's instructions.
  2. Wear protective gear (gloves, goggles).
  3. Ensure proper ventilation.
  4. Avoid applying in extreme weather conditions.

Would you like more information on AAC Block Jointing Mortar or AAC block installation?

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Answer Well its about getting the right products for the job. Depending on what type of project is going on but here are the basics. floor preparation. if starting on plywood there must be a subfloor for the mortar to adhere to. this can be cement backer board, the floor can be mudded with a self leveling mortar. Cement backer board is the most common use. it come in quarter to half inch thick sheets and can be cut with a razor knife (score and snap then cut), or cement sheers (dewalt has some). cover entire floor. Then buy mortar either custom building product which can be found depot, or other such as mapei or laticrete. a knotch trowel is needs (size of trowel depending on tile size). mix mortar and follow directions on the bag. mix in 5 gallon bucket with drill and mortar mixer attachment. but before this measure and see how you want to tile layed on the floor. it is good to mark with chalk, also measure two points off a wall to make sure you are square the the wall. tile spacers are a good idea. this helps leave room for the grout and keeps everytile square to each other. spread mortar evenly to an area with knotched trowel, but only an area to only til about 4-6 tiles at one time, then repeat the process. do no mortar the whole floor first and dont rap ourself in a corner. lay the tile where you want it and press down firmly. wipe excess mortar on edges of tile. there are parts that you can use for room to room transitions, like carpet to tile. find one you like and tile to it and follow instructions. once finished let dry for 24 hours. then grout. (24 hours is excessive, in my opinion, considering the temperature and humidity of the house, 8-12 hours should be plenty)

throw the spacers away, pop a chalk line square to one of the walls, a long exterior wall would be best. measure your tiles, measure several as they will vary slightly and get a good average size, if you're using 12"-18" tile, double your average size of the tile and add 1/2" for grout lines. pop a line parallel the other chalk line exactly that dimension away (2 tile sizes + 1/2"). continue across the room(s). now you need a line perpendicular to these lines, laser square works best but there are plenty of ways to get a perpendicular line. you can check by popping the line and and then popping another parallel the same dimension away from that line (2 tile sizes +1/2"), then measure corner to corner diagonally on the square it creates, both directions. these dimensions should be as close as possible, if the lines are perpendicular, these dimensions will be exactly the same. once you have those lines, continue to pop the rest in that direction using the same dimension throught the room(s). you will now know where every tile will be placed and can actually make every cut you need before mixing your thinset. when you're ready to install, trowel your mortar in one square at time and install 4 tiles in the center of this square. your grout lines will be straight and much more consistent than using the spacers

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